A 27 mile hike into the tropical forest of Colombia’s Sierra Nevada leads to the “Lost City” known as “La Cuidad Perdida” in Spanish, the ruins of a huge, ancient, abandoned city. This place was only discover in the 1970s. It is finally accessible to tourists and has re-open again after being shut down for covid.
The Lost City was started around 800 A.D. by the Tairona people (650 years before Machu Picchu). The city was massive by the standards of the time and may have had up to 8,000 inhabitants. The Lost City is an impressive feat of engineering, built along a steep mountain nearly a mile above sea level and all the stones were somehow brought up from sea level. A complex network of stone bridges and drainage systems maintained the city for hundreds of years.
The Lost City was finally abandoned in the 16th century due to the Spanish conquest and the diseases which they brought which decimated the tribe. At that time the Tairona tribe retreated into the mountains and split into 4 tribes, the Wiwa, Kogi, Arhuaro and Kankuamo.
While the site is now open there is only one trail in and out and it is a hard 27 mile hike to get there and back.
The Experience
There are only 5 tour companies authorized to do the hikes, Expotur-Eco, Magic Tours, Turcol, Guias y Baquianos and Wiwa tours. I signed up with Expoyur-Eco tours.
Day 1
The tour company sent a van which picked me up at the hotel and then we pick up a few others and went to the tour company office for a little paperwork and coffee. After about an hour we were assigned our vans (you can leave your luggage at their office if you need) and then start our ride to the base of the hike. It is about one hour on a highway and then another hour up a very small bumpy dirt roadway. We ended at the Neyla restaurant in the small town of Mamey. Here we have a nice lunch and our guide explained things to us. After lunch we were shown the map detailing our hike in front of the restaurant and then we began.
The first day is nice, long straight paths going up gradually. There is a little light rain on and off.
We stopped three times along the way for breaks at places which sold water, juices and snacks (including coca leaves).
We finish the hike after fours hours at our first base camp. At the base camp we are told there is a small river with a little waterfall to swim at across from the camp (See picture below). It is getting dark so we run there and take a dip. After that is showers (all cold water) and then dinner.
After dinner, we find our bunk beds which are comfortable with a little mosquito netting and then its lights out.
Day 2
Lights go on at 5am and someone walking around telling everyone rise and shine. Breakfast at 5:30am and the hike begins at 6pm. This first part is nice, pretty straight, see some beautiful scenes and stop at a couple places on the trail which sell snacks and coffee where we are given watermelon. The second half of the trail is where it starts getting tough. The trail starts going up and down steeply. Its gets very rocky and muddy at places. (remember to have good hiking shoes).
We stop for a quick lunch and then about 20 minutes after where we had lunch, we stop at a Wiwa village and the chief tells us about the life and customs of the tribe.
This day is the 7 hour hike so it seems to keep going. Finally we make it base camp. Luckily there is a nice river to swim at next to the base camp.
Day 3
This is the Lost City Day. It starts with nice thirty minute hike along the river until we get to the river crossing. You can use the dumb waiter to be pulled across or you can cross through the river holding onto a rope.
The Stairs
There are 1,200 stone steps up a steep hill to get to the entrance of the Lost City. It is tough but you can stop and rest as you need. At the top is a little entrance hut. The guy here gives you a Lost City Passport to get in (and if you like he will stamp your real passport with his Lost City stamp).
Then you enter. Its a beautiful space, the guide explains the history and we took some photos then its onward to the upper levels. The tours are staggered a little so its not too crowded.
Finally to the top, here we relaxed and wander for about 20 minutes. There is bathroom and place to buy food and water on the side trail.
We left down another side trail and went to see a few Kogi huts and meet the chief. He greeted us and sold us wristbands if we wanted. Then we went down another trail to see some more ruins and the cemetery.
All of the Lost City has not been found yet and they are still finding more places to excavate as they go along.
Our guide takes us to a burial ground and how the tribes lived and still lived and met here for sacred rituals was explained. Finally we started back down the 1,200 stairs and across the river and hiked back to the base camp.
We had our lunch at the camp and then a tough 4 hour up and down hike to our last base camp. Here is our last dinner and then a few beers and off to bed.
Day 4
The last day. It is a lot of hiking to get out and by now we are feeling it. Another day of up and down, a hard 4 hours to get to the first base camp we stayed at the 1st day. About an hour here. If you are doing the 5 day trek, the only difference is you stay here for the night. For us, the 4 day trek people its back to the trail after an hour and it is still tough up and down for another hour. After an hour its back to a paved street. If you want you can take a motorcycle ride from here back to the starting restaurant (25,000 COP) or walk the rest of the way which is not a bad walk although it takes another 2 hours. Finally back to the restaurant we started at. We are tired and a bit battered but happy. A good meal and we relax before finally getting in the van for the 2 hour ride back to Santa Marta for rest, recuperation and a little celebration!
Advice- what to need to know
This is a great, challenging experience. It is truly beautiful but this is not a leisurely tourist hike so be prepared.
Most important –
Pack light in a small backpack- you carry you backpack yourself going up and down the mountain for 4 days, its tough so make it as light as you can. My advice would be a school size backpack (half the size of normal travel backpack). It is warm even at night so you only really need 4 pairs of shorts and 4 short sleeve shirts (maybe a long sleeve one and a pair of pants for night) along with your socks and undergarments and your toiletries.
Be in shape- this is a challenge and there are no road for cars in or out so hard to get help or back out in the middle.
Have good comfortable hiking shoes, it gets quite slippery and muddy at parts.
Bring some plastic bags to keep your dry clothes from your wet clothes. At night you can hang up your clothes on a line but because of the humidity its just as damp in the morning. If you can bring quick dry clothes.
Sunscreen- You need sunscreen although you are in the shade on the trails a lot.
Bring a water bottle, you can refill water at each base camp.
Flashlight- At night it is dark and once its bedtime all the lights are turned off so you need a flashlight to find the bathroom (although the flashlight from your cellphone is fine).
Swimsuit- for swimming in the river after hikes
Insect repellant- the mosquitos can get nasty.
money- as mentioned there are places to buy snack and water and other stuff along the way.
The facilities are basic, there is no hot water for the showers and food is tasty but simple and light. The vegetarian option is usually the same as the normal meal with the meat not added.
There wasn’t a lot of animals although there are snakes like this one but it was harmless.
If you are feeling tired or bad, there are a some parts of the hike you can hire a mule to take you to the next spot, as one member of our expedition did whose knees were hurting. Although please note that he told me it was not a great experience as the hills are very steep and it was tough staying on the mule as it went down the trail.
Conclusion
It is a challenge which is made up for by the beauty of the nature and the experience, a once in a lifetime experience. If you have any comments, advice or a good story, let us know. Enjoy and Good luck!
Awesome! Thank you for sharing!
Thank you, glad you enjoyed, cheers
This is not a hike for the weak…
You have a strong character & the curiosity of a cat….
Thank you for sharing your trek,
glad you made it in & out safely….
S
Thank you, it definately tested me, glad I made it there and back, great experience, thanks for reading and commenting 🙂